RVAsec Badge Build 2014 - Revision history

Athulus at 17:18, 24 December 2016

2016-12-24T17:18:59Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 13:18, 24 December 2016
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	'''''This Project page ~~is still~~ a work in progress!'''''		'''''This Project page will always be a work in progress!'''''
	== Summary ==		== Summary ==

F42 at 18:53, 11 February 2015

2015-02-11T18:53:33Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:53, 11 February 2015
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	'''''This Project page is still a work in progress!'''''		'''''This Project page is still a work in progress!'''''
	[https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1JP9HdLbEjNkfZprIeUgc4T0QQxzq7Sqc-nfatQ5G2lk/edit?usp=sharing Timeline for the 2015 Badge Project] & [https://docs.google.com/document/d/1D_UMwmD2O9-YU9tIqB6Wny_1zzTpIu1NpNLQ2sLnwFY/edit?usp=sharing Meeting Notes]
	== Summary ==		== Summary ==

Mogstu: Adding in link to doc notes

2015-01-27T01:52:03Z

Adding in link to doc notes

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:52, 26 January 2015
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	'''''This Project page is still a work in progress!'''''		'''''This Project page is still a work in progress!'''''
	[https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1JP9HdLbEjNkfZprIeUgc4T0QQxzq7Sqc-nfatQ5G2lk/edit?usp=sharing Timeline for the 2015 Badge Project]		[https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1JP9HdLbEjNkfZprIeUgc4T0QQxzq7Sqc-nfatQ5G2lk/edit?usp=sharing Timeline for the 2015 Badge Project] & [https://docs.google.com/document/d/1D_UMwmD2O9-YU9tIqB6Wny_1zzTpIu1NpNLQ2sLnwFY/edit?usp=sharing Meeting Notes]
	== Summary ==		== Summary ==

Mogstu at 22:16, 18 December 2014

2014-12-18T22:16:35Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 18:16, 18 December 2014
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	'''''This Project page is still a work in progress!'''''		'''''This Project page is still a work in progress!'''''
			[https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1JP9HdLbEjNkfZprIeUgc4T0QQxzq7Sqc-nfatQ5G2lk/edit?usp=sharing Timeline for the 2015 Badge Project]
	== Summary ==		== Summary ==

Mogstu: /* Process Overview */

2014-09-13T20:50:12Z

Process Overview

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:50, 13 September 2014
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	==== Cutting and Drilling ====		==== Cutting and Drilling ====

	You should now have at least one board with your desired trace on it. If you need to make multiples, you'll have a larger caopper board with many smaller duplicate traces on it. We used a tile saw to cut these boards out and we didn't have any problems. We also drilled any through hole points by hand using a drimel and stand		You should now have at least one board with your desired trace on it. If you need to make multiples, you'll have a larger caopper board with many smaller duplicate traces on it. We used a tile saw to cut these boards out and we didn't have any problems. We also drilled any through-hole points by hand using a drimel and stand. The process of making these holes could be improved using a CNC, though we had issues getting correct and consistent registration. Your mileage may vary.

Mogstu: /* Resist Application */

2014-09-13T20:48:08Z

Resist Application

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:48, 13 September 2014
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	==== Resist Application ====		==== Resist Application ====
	We experimented in with both toner transfer and photo-resist film. In the end, the majority of the production boards were fabricated using the toner transfer method due to issues in the photo-resist process.		We experimented with both the toner transfer and photo-resist film. In the end, the majority of the production boards were fabricated using the toner transfer method due to issues in the photo-resist process. Note that a slightly botched resist application can often be saved with a steady hand and a permanent marker. The marker will resist the etchant fine, so simple draw-in any missing pieces of the resist.

	===== Toner Transfer =====		===== Toner Transfer =====
	The toner transfer is just that: we print the schematic onto a material that readily transfers the toner to the copper board when heat is applied. We do this by coating high-quality photo paper with dextrin (a starch compound) and then directly printing the design using a need printer model here. We've found that applying the dextrin with a high-quality paint brush is fast and effective. We also used our t-shirt press to release the toner followed by a soaking in tap water that removes the paper. Generally, high pressure and heat should do the job. When etching, be careful to not let the toner fall-away; it's relatively sensitive and may not last for long in a hot ferric bath.		The toner transfer is just that: we print the schematic onto a material that readily transfers the toner to the copper board when heat is applied. We do this by coating high-quality photo paper with dextrin (a starch compound) and then directly printing the design using a need printer model here. We've found that applying the dextrin with a high-quality paint brush (fine bristles that, no streaks) is fast and effective. We also used our t-shirt press at what temperature and timing to release the toner followed by a soaking in tap water that removes the paper. Generally, high pressure and heat should do the job. When etching, be careful to not let the toner fall-away; it's relatively sensitive and may not last for long in a hot ferric bath.

	===== Photo-resist Film =====		===== Photo-resist Film =====
	We bought photo-resist film and paste from several sources, with varying success. The photo-resist intended for screen printing applied well, but didn't stand up to the ferric bath well enough, since this compound is water soluble. A similar paste, but specifically intended for PCB etching, was also tested. It was very resilient to scrubbing, water, and the ferric, though applying it evenly consistently proved very difficult. However, a higher quality brush or roller applicator may work well.		We bought photo-resist film and paste from several sources, with varying success. The photo-resist intended for screen printing applied well, but didn't stand up to the ferric bath well enough, since this compound is water soluble. A similar paste, but specifically intended for PCB etching, was also tested (link??). It was very resilient to scrubbing, water, and the ferric, though applying it evenly consistently proved very difficult. However, a higher quality brush or roller applicator may work well.

			==== Etching ====

			After your resist is in place on the copper board in the pattern of your desired copper trace, you can begin to etch your boards.

			Though we did some experimentation with other strong chemical that burns, we found Ferric Chloride to work best. It is available at most Radio Shacks and in bulk online. It's best to use it heated up to around 115 degrees Fahrenheit. A higher temperature will etch the copper away faster, but the heat may also erode away your resist faster. So it's a bit of a balancing act and takes some experimentation. Some slight agitation by hand or with a strong bubbler can really help speed the process up. In fact, without it, you may have very little luck getting an even etch. Also note that glass is probably your best option for a container, though plastics that can stand the heat could also work. Of course, do not use metal.

			==== Cutting and Drilling ====

			You should now have at least one board with your desired trace on it. If you need to make multiples, you'll have a larger caopper board with many smaller duplicate traces on it. We used a tile saw to cut these boards out and we didn't have any problems. We also drilled any through hole points by hand using a drimel and stand

Mogstu at 00:10, 16 June 2014

2014-06-16T00:10:44Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:10, 15 June 2014
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			'''''This Project page is still a work in progress!'''''
	== Summary ==		== Summary ==

Mogstu: /* Resist Application */

2014-06-14T22:59:41Z

Resist Application

← Older revision		Revision as of 18:59, 14 June 2014
Line 17:		Line 17:

	==== Resist Application ====		==== Resist Application ====
			We experimented in with both toner transfer and photo-resist film. In the end, the majority of the production boards were fabricated using the toner transfer method due to issues in the photo-resist process.

			===== Toner Transfer =====
			The toner transfer is just that: we print the schematic onto a material that readily transfers the toner to the copper board when heat is applied. We do this by coating high-quality photo paper with dextrin (a starch compound) and then directly printing the design using a need printer model here. We've found that applying the dextrin with a high-quality paint brush is fast and effective. We also used our t-shirt press to release the toner followed by a soaking in tap water that removes the paper. Generally, high pressure and heat should do the job. When etching, be careful to not let the toner fall-away; it's relatively sensitive and may not last for long in a hot ferric bath.

			===== Photo-resist Film =====
			We bought photo-resist film and paste from several sources, with varying success. The photo-resist intended for screen printing applied well, but didn't stand up to the ferric bath well enough, since this compound is water soluble. A similar paste, but specifically intended for PCB etching, was also tested. It was very resilient to scrubbing, water, and the ferric, though applying it evenly consistently proved very difficult. However, a higher quality brush or roller applicator may work well.

Mogstu at 21:43, 14 June 2014

2014-06-14T21:43:27Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:43, 14 June 2014
Line 7:		Line 7:

	== Process Overview ==		== Process Overview ==
	The past two years (2014 and 2013), HackRVA and its members have built the badges from bare copper boards. Members etch, pick-and-place, solder, and QC every badge. The following PCB Creation and Component Stuffing sections detail this process. Relevant QC steps are described within ~~those~~ sections.		The past two years (2014 and 2013), HackRVA and its members have built the badges from bare copper boards. Members etch, pick-and-place, solder, and QC every badge. The following PCB Creation and Component Stuffing sections detail this process. Relevant QC steps are described within these sections.

			=== PCB Creation ===
			There are many PCB manufacturers that offer relatively cheap manufacturing of single-layer boards. Still, drawbacks include the increased cost and the "Christmas surprise": a large number of costly boards appearing on our doorstep with systemic issues. Additionally, the hacker look and the learning experience of creating our boards is generally considered very valuable.

			We start with bare copper boards (1/2 ounce), apply a resist compound in the pattern of the desired board trace, and finally we remove the exposed copper (not covered by resist) with ferric chloride.

			The following subsections describe this process, including some tips and general do's and don'ts.

			==== Resist Application ====

Mogstu: /* Summary */

2014-06-14T21:32:27Z

Summary

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:32, 14 June 2014
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	The current firmware, including links to datasheets, can be found on our [https://github.com/HackRVA/rvasec-badge-2014 GitHub Page]		The current firmware, including links to datasheets, can be found on our [https://github.com/HackRVA/rvasec-badge-2014 GitHub Page]

			== Process Overview ==
			The past two years (2014 and 2013), HackRVA and its members have built the badges from bare copper boards. Members etch, pick-and-place, solder, and QC every badge. The following PCB Creation and Component Stuffing sections detail this process. Relevant QC steps are described within those sections.